samedi 29 janvier 2011

Panerai SIHH 2011, the Apogee.

Well, as we're all adults (as much as can being Paneristis) and agreeing, I am going to write the article back to front, the conclusion, then the points of details. So the conclusion comes obiously.

It's been 9 months that I am hidden in my cave, in mountains, on the heights of Palexpo.
That I guess, that I suppose, that I watch this SIHH.

That made a while since I spread you ears, with my theory about the golden age of Panerai, I feel good that some were septic, even dubidative (I don't dare to say hostile).
Nevertheless the obviousness is there, I have just assisted to the most beautiful Panerai SIHH.

I noticed the powering up of Panerai SIHH since 3years, in 2008, it was not evident, but through 311, we felt a will to do better, that it's specified gradually, 2009, 305, 341, even if the 341 is unwearable, it comforted a willingness to stick to vintage standards.
Then last year, with great 339 and 300, this will become obvious, for the finests observers...
You should notice that I had hailed loudly the advent of the P.3000
I knew that were going to send HUGE stuff this year, as far as the SIHH, at the noticable exception of VCA (I missed Lange, I return there later), is rather poor in Roxin' novelties this year
And even in hotels, except brilliant Heritage Watch Manufactory of Frasdorf/Giroud and the new De Déthune DB25T Seconde Morte Tourbillon, there is nothing to eat.
In such a gloomy context, that doubly underlined the festival at Panerai, and finally, it's too, the only defect of this year, it is that it there with too many essentials watches. Even if the choice of the 372 is obvious, there is enough indispensable watchs to surf on it in the next five SIHH.
In only one year, they bring out more absolute watches than during all the previous SIHH.
After starving certain years, it is the Cornucopia.
And I did not devote enough time to certain watches.
I come with friends crossed over the show, Emanuela take the Appointments withtout breaks, as a result, I'll miss my appointement with Julieto see Lange, ouch, collateral victim. : '(
A big thank to Emmanuella to suffer me, I've never been so enthusiastic like 5years old kid, during a presentation.

First, the new movement, the P.3000, this caliber is the most interesting, produced byPanerai, since they claim (legitimately), to be a manufacture .
This caliber is assembled by the Panerai watchmakers in manufactory of Val-Fleurier, designed by Eric Lein. With similar characteristics of Unitas, so much its decoration than in is big balance wheel (that remind me the work of Karsten Frasdorf).
Low frequency a 21600a / hour (base 6 thus, as the common denominator of our hourly paradigm), mandatory with a big balance wheel (the energy consumed for start, is multiplied when one goes up in frequency), come back to the classic chronometry standard, small regret, the thickness, 5.3mm, against 4 for the Unitas.
Thickness is du to the double barrel, given for 72h of power reserve, thus 80h real, against 56/60 real for the Unitas.

Small note about Wristshots (166 photos in the 1 hour, I am going to ask for the photographic asylum to the Japanese embassy).
I was accompanied by a couple of friends, Sonia and Richard who have a wrist about 16-17cm, against 18-19 for me, he wears a white shirt with cufflinks, and I wear the blue shirt rolled up.
The next time, I come in polos to the shows, that avoids wasting WS;)




We begin with the 372, I think that we all waited it for a long time, moreover, it will be necessary to be accustomed to wait, because 372 will not be available before 1 year, and that is going to be the longest year for many Paneristi.
Panerai, since I'm interested in the brand (approximately 5 years), that have been a series of successivebig slaps, the day I took the slaps with the 232, I had to wait (2 years!!)to take another slap with the 127 from EDI a hard day on the barge.
Even if the 339/300 had strongly impressed me lastyear, I had not either fallen down in early childhood.

But here is the absolute Panerai, when I passed it, I had tears tear to the eye, as gentlemen, Iwould have dared to wallow in lachrymal effusions deserving of my of my standing, but I'am still excited as a teenage girl at a concert of Tokyo Hotel.
This watch as everything, the case is thick, even the bottom is thicker than the « modern » models, the case is relatively thick,edge on the shape gives it a class that « hasbeenized » everything that was made in cushion case.
This case, moreover, with his quasi-symmetry, is just perfect, we quickly forget the bezel to be hypnotized by the tubular plexiglass, which determines a deformation of the glass, and a vision of « réhaut » completely different from all previous Panerai.
This plexi deforms as far as possible the « réhaut », and finally this one dissapear, to leave a gaping magnifying glass in the wrist, little regret in the dial, the old luminova is pretty cool, on the contrary, the index are too little compare to the 232, on the other hand nothing to say about the choose of the font, she's fat, fat font for a fat watch (and fat Lady's are better ;) )...
When you put it on the wrist, you take a one-way trip to the 40'-50', impossible to come back on most modern Panerai. With my radiomir 1938, I have feeling to have a Chinese fake of Ebay at the wrist.

All these vintages that we admired by far, on the wrists of fortunate Asian or American Paneristis, we've almost got it for a moderate sum, without the radioactivity which stains, without the wear, without the Italian and German (real) fake, in abundance, this absolute vintage-style, which I thought inaccessible (for 50k, I'am going on a De Béthune, not on a fake contaminated by Radium), we could have it in abundance, in our AD at the corner of the street, whitout the stress of the LE, or ultra limited series. The 3000 pieces at 9000Chf/USD seems confirmed.

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Then comes the 382, 305 on bronze case. It's heavy, it stains, it's uber-virile, it's good.At wrist, the feeling, despite total diver (old school) look of the watch It sound like Gladiator watch, more "dude" than that, you die!
It is even more savage than the sensation of the bomba in 2004, and contrary to the bomba, comfort is preserved.
Obviously, considering the Emanuela's speech, they have extensively studied the issue of Panerai case in bronze (with particular experience Gefica), so we can presume that the after-sales service will manage intelligently the problems of maintaining the 382 case, bronze aging differently, depending on the worn and the carrier, each 382 at the end of a fewmonths will be fully personalized , for reminding, the bronze as you wear it, stay polish/ turns black or turquoise, as bronzes from your grandparents.
The other part very worthwhile, it's the green dial, a bit trash besides, which that make sens in a Panerai dial.
A little darker than photo, it is more appropriate to the case of 305, finally, between the bronze and this beautiful green dial, I have not felt the emptiness of the 305 dial, in short, is the best went out until now, and the other essential watch of this SIHH 2011.

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The 375, the almost perfect replica of the 127, the case is a bit thicker (the P.3000 is 1.3mm thicker), and the watch loses a bit of its charm, the other point wich I regret is that the watch is quasimonochromic between the dial and case.
But in fact, the main sin of this beautiful watch, is to arrive the same year than the 372.
Since John Rambo with the 1950 47mm case in ceramic, this 1950 black case is a big dream of the community. And this phantasm is plenty accomplished, amazing composite coating + fantastic case of the 127 + aged index + domed saphir, it's a perfect strike.
But most of us have to make a choice between this 3 marvelous firsts watchs.

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The 373, Radiomir 47mm, platinium case, 2533 dial. Another big phantasm who's come this year.
373 is as we had hoping. The « réhaut » seems very différent of the 232, the magnifying effect, the fat font and the aged index, do the remaining job...
For the total vintageness is very beautiful, very pure, very very expensive, if the case in platinum fit well on the wrist , it feel badly on the wallet, it's a pity, but it will be difficult to blame Panerai about their choice of metals, considering the qualitative and quantitative Scalability of 2011's novelties.
Small aesthetic regret, while the watch claims to be totally vintage, in particular through his thick caseback, and his tubular plexiglass, has a case side too thick, isn't in conformity with real vintage, it's a pity.

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The 376, Radiomir 47mm, Cali dial, all previous thougth are still available, the dial Cali is less original, but considering the quality of the product, the quote of the a 249 from second hand, the question of buying a precious metal is legitimate. Moreover, she's not too weighty, and water resistant a 100 meters.

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At last the 379, the same, in pink gold/Panerai dial, she's magic, my LA pimp atavism speak, but I love it, it's big, it's weighty, in full gold.
The one that has less meaning in a collection, but the funniest of the 3 on the wrist.

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Panerai had already done us the blow of the trio of Radiomir in 3 precious metals,but never realized so beautiful way both the choice of dial perfectly mastered, as the general finish, ,indicates as the design ( Of Alessandro Ficarelli?) of the watchs has matured into the Neuchatel's house.
Hey, you've noticed, no PAM374! ;)

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The 368, another LE, a left-handed, I must admit I felt nothing for the left-handed, but I presume that for fans it's a must-have, once again the characteristics are enough to tempt you,47mm, titanium, P.2002, domed sapphire, perfect finish, the thickness is relativelycontained in addition.

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The 371 Regatta, the most beautiful Regatta to be ever released, like this SIHH2011 a GMT P.9000, a beautiful blue dial, who fits happier this LE than usual blackdial of the 305 (that becames older between the 371 and 382).
Blue is substantially the same as the 087 Bomba v2, note the clearer first quarter of small second, a very beautiful versatile watch, a must-have for collectors of Regatta.

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The 345, last LE. Knowing that Panerai is a niche brand, we are here on a microniche, say Chihuahua's niche, so much the rares features overlap in this model.
Left-handed, chrono titanium PR not linear, but on the back, a novelty for a P.200X(2004.9, in this case), his biggest problem, a flat sapphire, almost cheap for this relatively expensive watch ...

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The 380, as the caliber (of firearm not of JlC), a range entry terribly effective, that will be the equivalent of Logo 000 for the radiomirs, to less than 3000€, Unitas, 45mm, the logo on the dial paintedi n light depression, small regret, the BlackSeal line seems to much for me.
The caseback is full steel, it is very fitting with theoriginal tool-watch spirit. Efficiency.

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The 384, Radiomir 45mm ceramic P.2002, unsurprisingly, I don't like it, ceramic case doesn't fit to the rads, super thick caliber making it excessively obese, it's doubtless the watch that I like less of this SIHH.
But Richard, adored it, all taste are in nature...

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386, the watch of the buzz pré--Sihh, I have difficultys to finding it qualities " buzzables ", seen the parade of fighter worthy of the airshow of the bourget/eurosatory.
It is very honest Panerai, a composite 312 P. 9000, it willn't prevent me from sleeping, but will doubtless make the enjoyment of the Asiatic market, which is not still provided with my advantageous physical appearance.

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The 369, Radiomir 42mm Chronograph (for Asian market), a watch as could have made of it Panerai there 5years, it's thick, not amazing level of finish, and overall without interrests, curiosity,an embarked OPXXIII, one 2892 with complication plate I believe…

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The 356, Luminor Bettarini case 44mm, Daylight,very beautiful homage to the Daylight range, a quite poor film will have succeeds in giving some rellay interesting watches (like poor Judgment Night give is huge OST).
We could see either the swansong of the Bettarini case there, or a subliminal message addressed to the amateurs of Bettarini case, standard, « we don't forget you ». It is in any way the not 47mm which I the most appreciated of this 2011 SIHH.

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Epilog: Panerai score with one of the fourth most interesting brand of the wonder week, a longside De Bethune Van Cleef& Arpels and Heritage Watch Manufactory, while almost all the other brands make a half-interest SIHH, Panerai realizes his best performance by opening the floodgates for all unfulfilled desires of Paneristis.
Better, they outdistance seriously, by increasingthe level of general finish and esthetic choices, all those which claimed to make Panerai-like (B&R at the head).
It is also a snub with all the embittered who spent their days to wallow in cheap and little attack with towards Bonati, even if it is of course the work of a team personified in the mustached man.
Finally, the biggest critic is that I don't see Panerai realize again a such beautiful SIHH in the future,
unless they exit the Little Egyziano, the big one in 47mm, the 339 with straight lugs (as the discussed Ferretti), and the 47mm submariner-like, same year, this exploit would be impossible to replicate...
At last, we should not cry, we are the lucky generation of Paneristi which lives directly the apogee of Panerai.

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